First Tunnels
Picture of Polytunnels

FAQ's

How easy are they to construct?
Frequently Asked QuestionsMake no mistake constructing a polytunnel is not a little project to amuse yourself over an idle Sunday afternoon. A 16ft x 30ft can be constructed in a day by knowledgeable constructors but it would be prudent to pencil in two days for a 'virgin' constructor'. The flip side is that if you can put together a piece of flat-pack furniture, you should have no real trouble in constructing your polytunnel.

IIn the year 2007 First Tunnels sold over 2500 polytunnels. Each of those customers erected their own polytunnel without any difficulty, thanks to the comprehensive and detailed instructions that we provide. If you do run into a problem or difficulty, you can view constructions videos at www.polytunnels.tv, contact us by email at help@firsttunnels.co.uk or telephone our office on 01282 601253.

You'll need several basic items of equipment - spade, tape measure, pegs and string for marking out, lump hammer, a drill and metal bits.  Also spanners - or even Frequently Asked Questionsbetter a socket set - both Philips and flat headed screwdrivers, scissors or a Stanley knife, hammer and saw. A step ladder will also come in handy.

What orientation is best?
If you are lucky and have a choice, and you are prone to heavy winds, then we would advise positioning the polytunnel where it will have the most protection, ie next to a wall, hedge, tree-line, etc. If this isn't possible it is advisable to position the length of the polytunnel into the prevailing wind. From a growing perspective it is generally accepted that a North to South orientation will generate slightly lower temperatures than East to West where the sun tracks across the long side of the polytunnel.

Is it worth using windbreaks to protect the Polytunnel?
Polytunnels are very robust structures and due to this have been widely adopted by many growers. However a Polytunnel is not a bomb shelter and severe gusts are still the most likely cause of damage. As Frequently Asked Questionspolythene ages, the more delicate it becomes and any extra protection you can give it by way of a windbreak will pay dividends - and peace of mind.

To view one of our polytunnels withstanding an Atlantic storm with 60mph+ winds, click below.

I'm fitting my Polytunnel with one end facing the prevailing wind. Should I fit extra catches?
If you are positioning your polytunnel on an exposed site, then you may want to consider fitting extra door furniture to ensure that the doors remain firmly closed. Extra tower bolts and drop bolts would certainly help prevent the doors being damaged.

Can Polytunnels be built on a Slope?
Our polytunnels can accommodate a slope providing it isn't too excessive. If the slope is along its width then the foundation tubes on the lower side can be left protruding out of the ground by a maximum of Frequently Asked Questions30cm. If the slope is more than this then you would need to have extended foundation tubes to ensure that there is enough tube fixed into the ground, please contact the office. For slopes along the length, then the polytunnel can be constructed as normal ensuring that the hoops are kept vertical. It may be necessary to clear some earth from the bottom end of the polytunnel to allow the door to open inwards.

Can I shrink the size of polytunnel once delivered?
I'm afraid it is not possible to alter the width of your chosen polytunnel but it is possible to shorten the length by setting the hoops closer together. The central ridge will require to be shortened and you may find it necessary to shorten stabilisers, etc.

Do doors open inwards or outwards?
The doors are designed to open inward. However, if fitting the door opening outwards is the only Frequently Asked Questionsalternative, this can be performed after the main cover has been fitted. Detailed instructions for switching can be found in the construction guide.

I'm struggling using the 'Self drill screws' for joining the metal tubes. Is their a 'knack' to it?
The screws are designed to drill their own hole. The method we find best is to start slowly and once the drill tip of the screw has begun to bite into the tube, press home firmly and increase speed. You may find drilling a small pilot hole first may prove helpful if you still continue to struggle.

When I've opened my packs of timber I've noticed a type of fungus on the surface.
This is quite natural. The treatment process undergone by the timber causes many wood nutrients to rise to the surface whereupon fungus sometimes appears. It is entirely superficial and a wipe with a damp Frequently Asked Questionscloth or exposure to the natural elements will eradicate the fungus.

I have opened a pack of timber and I've found some timber battens have snapped in two. Do I still have enough?
Although we take every effort to ensure that the timber supplied is free from any serious knots or other defects, timber is a natural product and not all such blemishes are identified. Due to the size, timber fixing battens are more liable to

such defects and as a consequence you may find a number, that have snapped in two. Many offending defects can be cut out, and then simply use the 'smaller than norm' Frequently Asked Questionsbattens' as you would with a 1.8m length, in fact, it is positively easier to work with shorter battens when fixing the cover.

When I try slotting a tube together (plain to swage), I find it very tight and difficult?
The tube has an internal weld and, although very rare it can be 'rough and raised' and makes slotting the tube together trickier than normal. Filing the weld should solve the problem.